Recipes

The French farmhouse move — leeks gone silky in white wine, chops braised on top

Chump chops sit in an interesting spot — too thick to rush, too tender to need all day. This braise is built for exactly that. You brown them hard, then let them sit in a pan of leeks that have melted down with butter, white wine and stock for three-quarters of an hour. Somewhere in that time the leeks stop being a vegetable and become the sauce. It's quiet, old-fashioned French country cooking — the sort of dish that asks for mash, a low fire and no plans for the evening.